Chumphon: Thailand’s best place to spot whale sharks (without the crowds)

Vol. 29 - April 2026

Most people saving for retirement have a number in mind. Fewer have a plan for turning that number into actual income.

The Definitive Guide to Retirement Income walks you through the questions that matter: what things will cost, where the money comes from, and how to keep your portfolio aligned with your long-term goals.

If you have $1,000,000 or more saved, download your free guide and start building a retirement income plan that holds up.

Download your free guide.

Most people don’t come to Chumphon on purpose.

They pass through it on the way to Koh Tao, maybe onward to Koh Samui, without realizing what they’re skipping.

But this is where Ploy’s dad is from! And once you slow down here, even just for a night or two, you start to understand a different version of southern Thailand. Quieter, less polished. Still very much local.

Happy Travels!

Ploy, Jochem & Moana ❤️

A travel story

Ploy’s dad is from Chumphon, and he has a small durian plantation here, so this is a place we have come back to more than once.

It sits on the Gulf coast in southern Thailand, between Hua Hin and Surat Thani. It is also one of the main jump-off points to take the ferry to Koh Tao and Koh Samui, but most people only pass through on their way to the islands.

If you stay a bit longer, you start to see what is around it.

The coastline is open and quiet, with long beaches and small fishing communities. In the morning, boats head out early and come back slowly with the day’s catch. Just offshore, the water is clear enough for snorkeling on calm days. You can take a boat trip out to nearby islands and spend a few hours in the water. There are reef fish, soft coral, and if you are lucky, sea turtles moving through the shallows.

You can also get your PADI diver’s license, at a price that’s noticeably lower than in most places.

Further out, the area is also known for whale shark sightings. Divers go out to deeper sites hoping to see them. The best spot is known as ‘Chumpon Pinnacle’. It’s not guaranteed, but in season (February to May) you can catch a glimpse of these gentle giants.

A lot of this sits within Mu Ko Chumphon National Park. The park is made up of small islands scattered along the coast. Some have quiet beaches where you can stop for a swim, others are covered in thick greenery. The water around them is where most snorkeling and diving trips take place.

If you want to stay on land, there are a few simple adventures as well. One of the more interesting ones is a hike to the Khao Thalu Cave. The walk takes you through forest and up a limestone hill, and at the top you pass through a narrow opening in the rock that looks out over the surrounding countryside.

Back in town, things stay low-key. There are local restaurants, small markets, and not much designed around visitors, which is super nice if you like to experience Thailand without the tourist traps.

People go about their day as usual. It feels like a normal Thai town set beside clear water, quiet beaches, and coastline that is still largely untouched.

That contrast is what keeps us coming back to Chumphon.

We usually stay with Ploy’s dad when we’re in Chumphon, so we haven’t spent many nights checking into hotels. But if you’re visiting, these are two places we would recommend for their setting and atmosphere:

• 6:30 am : Sunrise by the sea // Start early along a quiet stretch of beach. Fishermen are already out, longtail boats moving slowly across the horizon.

• 7:30 am : Simple breakfast // Coffee, fruit, something easy. If you’re staying near the coast, take it outside. Mornings here aren’t rushed.

• 9:00 am : Head to the islands // Make your way to the pier and take a boat out toward nearby islands like Koh Ngam or Koh Mattra. The water is clear, and the crowds are minimal.

• 10:30 am : Snorkelling // Spend the late morning in the water. Coral reefs, small fish, and long quiet stretches between swims. It’s low-key and rewarding.

• 12:30 pm : Lunch by the sea // Back on land, find a local spot near the pier. Grilled seafood, rice dishes, something cold to drink. Nothing complicated.

• 2:00 pm : Slow afternoon or visit a swiftlet nest cave // If you feel like heading out, visit one of Chumphon’s swiftlet bird nest caves along the coast. These quiet limestone caves are where edible bird’s nests are harvested, something the region is known for and is believed to have healthy benefits when consumed (all 7-elevens and Makro’s sell this ‘Bird’s Nest’ drink).

• 4:30 pm : Coastal drive or viewpoint // Head out again in the late afternoon. Drive along the coast or stop at a viewpoint like Khao Matsee.

• 5:45 pm : Sunset // Find a quiet place to watch the sun go down. Fewer people, more space. It feels very different from busier beach towns.

• 7:00 pm : Dinner at Season Cafe Chumphon // A more relaxed setting to end the day. Good food (Thai & American food), calm atmosphere, and a nice change of pace after being out in the sun.

• 8:30 pm : Early night // Back to the hotel. The evenings here are quiet, and the day winds down naturally. We always love to sit together and discuss the day while looking at the stars (still possible here without the light polution).

If you liked this week’s edition, here’s what’s worth to Eat, See and Explore:

Food in Chumphon is simple, and that’s exactly the point.

Most places aren’t trying to stand out. They’ve been cooking the same dishes for years, serving what comes in fresh that day. Seafood is the default; grilled, steamed, or quickly stir-fried, and meals tend to be shared.

There are a few cafés and more polished spots starting to appear, but they sit quietly alongside older, family-run restaurants that still define the area.

If you want a few places to start with, these are worth knowing:

Season Cafe Chumphon
A calm, well-designed space that feels slightly more considered without losing its ease. Good mix of Thai and Western dishes, solid coffee, and a place that works well at any time of day. It’s an easy, reliable stop when you want something a bit more comfortable.

View Seafood
Right by the water, and exactly what you want after a day out. Fresh seafood, simple preparations, and a setting that leans fully into the coast. Come around sunset and take your time with it.

The Seaside Tha Ruea Cafe & Bistro
A softer, slightly more modern stop by the water. Coffee, light meals, and a relaxed setting that works well in the late afternoon. A good place to slow down for a bit before heading into the evening.

Baan Koh Teyab
A quiet, locally run spot set right by the water, known for its fresh seafood and simple setting. Tables sit close to the shoreline, and the focus is on what comes in that day; grilled fish, crab, and classic southern dishes. It’s not designed or polished, but that’s exactly the appeal. Come for a long, unhurried meal, especially in the late afternoon when the light softens over the sea.

Baan Ouadchum Chumphon
A more design-led café set among trees, with elevated wooden structures and open views across the water. It feels calm and considered, but still relaxed. Come here for coffee or a light meal, and take your time—the setting is very much part of the experience.

Khao Matsee Viewpoint
One of the easiest ways to take in the Chumphon coastline. A winding road leads up to wide, open views over the sea and surrounding hills. It’s especially good late in the day, when the light softens and everything slows down.

Mu Ko Chumphon National Park
A stretch of protected coastline and islands just offshore. Think quiet beaches, clear water, and boat trips out to places like Koh Ngam. It’s less developed than other parts of southern Thailand, which is exactly why it stands out.

Thung Wua Laen Beach
One of the more accessible beaches in Chumphon, but still relaxed. Long, open shoreline, a few cafés, and enough space to never feel crowded. Good for a walk, a swim, or just an easy stop during the day.

Chumphon Night Market
Simple, local, and busy in the evenings. Skewers, seafood, sweets, and small tables set up along the street. It’s not designed for visitors, which is part of what makes it feel real.

Ao Thung Makham Noi
A quiet coastal stretch just outside town that most people pass on the way elsewhere. A few fishing boats, simple seaside restaurants, and long empty sections of beach. It feels more like a working coastline than a destination, which is exactly why it’s worth stopping.

Koh Phitak Community
A small island connected by a narrow bridge, with a local fishing community that has slowly opened up to visitors. You can walk or cycle around, see how people live day to day, and even stay overnight. It’s low-key, personal, and very different from typical island trips.

Wat Tham Khao Plu
A cave temple set into limestone hills inland. Less visited than other cave spots, and noticeably quieter. Inside, the space opens up into a cool, dim chamber with small shrines tucked into the rock. It’s a calm, slightly unexpected stop.

Laem Thaen (Pak Nam Chumphon)
A long pier stretching out into the sea, mostly used by locals. In the late afternoon, people come here to fish, sit, or just watch the water. It’s simple, open, and doesn’t feel set up for visitors.

You’ll hear this almost every time you order food, especially at local restaurants or markets. It’s a simple question, but knowing it helps you follow what’s happening without hesitation.

If you want to respond:
กินที่นี่ (kin tîi nîi) = eat here
กลับบ้าน (kàp bâan) = take away

Songs for discovering Thailand: from scenic drives to hidden escapes. New vibes added every week .

Click on any of the tracks below to get in the travel mood.

We hope you enjoyed this edition of The Thai List.

If you did, please share the love 💕 by inviting your friends and family to join our little community.

Each week we uncover local secrets, hidden escapes, and the best food and drinks Thailand has to offer.

Don’t miss out on the journey.

Wishing you save travels,

The Thai List - Your weekly postcard from Thailand 🇹🇭