Mae Hong Son: Would you drive 1,800 curves for this view?

Vol. 21 - Feb 2026

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Some places are loud with attractions. Mae Hong Son is not one of them.

You do not arrive here by accident. You come over 1,800 bends from Chiang Mai, or by a short flight that drops into a valley surrounded by mountains. Either way, the journey prepares you.

Mae Hong Son feels different from most of Thailand. The culture leans Shan, not central Thai. Temples carry Burmese influence. The air is cooler and the pace is unforced.

Here is what is truly worth your time.

Happy travels, Ploy & Jochem

A travel story

The drive to Mae Hong Son is part of the experience. From Chiang Mai, the road winds through the mountains for hours (Moana had enough at one point hihi). There are constant curves, small villages along the way, and long stretches of forest. It takes focus, and you feel the distance.

When you finally arrive, the town feels contained by the mountains around it.

Mae Hong Son sits in a small valley. In the morning, there is often mist over Nong Chong Kham Lake. The two Shan-style temples next to the water give the town a different feel from most places in Thailand. It’s quieter and less polished.

We stayed at The Fern Resort, about ten minutes outside town. It’s set in open green space with rice fields and mountains behind it. The setting is simple but peaceful. Mornings were cool, with fog sitting low over the grass. Breakfast looked out over the fields, and by evening the temperature dropped quickly once the sun went behind the hills. It felt separate from town in a good way.

Most days meant getting back on the road.

One morning we drove up to Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu. The road is steep but short. From the top, you can see the whole valley. If you go early, the mist slowly clears and the town comes into view.

Another day we drove north to Pang Ung, a reservoir surrounded by pine trees. West of Mae Hong Son is Ban Rak Thai, a small village near the border with strong Yunnan influence. We highly recommend this place, it’s like going back in time! Tea plantations cover the hills, and breakfast there is steamed buns and hot tea.

By the second day, the curves stop feeling intimidating and start feeling addictive.

You look for the next viewpoint. The next empty stretch. The next tea stop in the hills. Mae Hong Son turns the drive into the reason you came.

• 6:30 am : Sunrise at Doi Kong Mu // Drive up before breakfast. The valley is often covered in mist, and you can see the town slowly come into focus below.

• 8:00 am : Breakfast near Nong Chong Kham Lake // Simple Thai breakfast or jok (rice soup) at a local shop. Walk past Wat Chong Klang and Wat Chong Kham while the town is still quiet.

• 09:00 am : Drive toward Pang Mapha // The road north is one of the best stretches in the province. Mountain views, long curves, very little traffic.

• 11:00 am : Tham Lod Cave // Take the bamboo raft through the cave. It’s cool inside, massive in scale, and surprisingly quiet. Allow time to walk through the chambers.

• 1:00 pm : Ja Bo Village // Continue up to Ja Bo for lunch. The hanging-leg noodle shop is exactly what it sounds like. Sit at the edge, legs over the drop, and order a simple bowl of noodles with mountain views.

• 2:30 pm : Ban Rak Thai // Head back west toward the border. Tea plantations cover the hills, and the small lake in the centre of the village gives it a different atmosphere from the rest of the province. Stop for Yunnan tea and steamed buns.

• 6:30 pm : Evening by the lake in town // Return to Mae Hong Son town. Walk the night market near Nong Chong Kham, pick up grilled fish or skewers, and sit by the water as the temples light up.

If you have more time, extend the loop south toward Pang Ung the next morning. It deserves its own early start.

Mae Hong Son’s food reflects its position near the border. Shan, northern Thai, and Yunnan influences show up on most menus. It’s less about trendy cafés and more about regional flavour and mountain comfort.

What works here is authenticity. No heavy styling or long menu’s. Just local food that fits the culture and landscape.

It means ‘don’t go too fast, keep it cool’ - the way we recommend to travel :)

Songs for discovering Thailand: from scenic drives to hidden escapes. New vibes added every week .

Click on any of the tracks below to get in the travel mood.

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Each week we uncover local secrets, hidden escapes, and the best food and drinks Thailand has to offer.

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Wishing you save travels,

The Thai List - Your weekly postcard from Thailand 🇹🇭