Nan: What Chiang Mai used to feel like

Vol. 30 - April 2026

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What started as a small idea has grown into something beyond our comprehension, shaped by your messages, your support, and your shared love for Thailand. Every reply, every kind word, every person following along means more to us than you probably realise.

Together, we’ve been uncovering hidden places, local secrets, and a quieter side of Thailand that often goes unnoticed.

We’re grateful to be on this journey with you.

And this still feels like just the beginning.

Thank you, truly, from the bottom of our hearts!

Ploy, Jochem & Moana ❤️

Some places in Thailand impress you immediately.

Nan doesn’t really do that.

It reveals itself more slowly. In the quiet streets before breakfast. In the sound of temple bells drifting across town. In mountain roads that keep turning deeper into the landscape. In the way people still seem to move at their own pace.

Many travelers head north and stop at Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai. Few continue east toward Nan.

And that’s exactly why we’re going there today.

Happy Travels!

A travel story

Nan sits quietly in Thailand’s far north, bordered by mountains and long stretches of forest. For many years it stayed relatively isolated, protected not by design but by geography. Roads took longer, routes were less convenient, and tourism largely built itself elsewhere.

That distance preserved something.

The town itself is compact and easy to move through. Temples sit between everyday streets. Markets open early. Cafés fill slowly. You don’t feel a city trying to entertain visitors. You feel a place simply continuing as it always has.

The cultural heart of Nan is Wat Phumin, known for its murals and calm interior spaces. The most famous painting, often called The Whisper, has become symbolic of the province. Even with its recognition, the temple still feels intimate rather than crowded.

Beyond town, Nan becomes a road-trip province.

Drive out in almost any direction and the scenery starts to widen. Rice paddies appear between villages. Hills begin to fold into mountains. Wooden homes stand beside newer concrete houses. You pass roadside stalls selling fruit, grilled chicken, coffee, or whatever is in season.

Further north, the road toward Bo Kluea is one of the most beautiful in the country. Curving roads cut through green ridgelines before dropping into a small valley known for its ancient salt wells. Salt has been produced here for centuries, long before tourism arrived.

Then there is Doi Phu Kha National Park, where forested mountains, cool air and walking trails make it worth slowing down for a night or two. In the rainy season everything feels intensely green. In the cool season, mornings can arrive with mist hanging over the hills.

Back in Nan town, evenings stay gentle.

Night markets appear, scooters pass quietly, and locals gather for dinner rather than spectacle. There are restaurants, bars and cafés, but little of it feels performative.

That’s what stays with people.

Nan doesn’t compete for your attention. It rewards it.

Nan keeps things relatively low-key, but that’s part of the charm. You’ll find a mix of simple boutique stays in town and more design-led escapes out in the mountains.

A solid mid-range base in Nan town with clean, comfortable rooms and an easy location for exploring temples, cafés and the night market. Simple, dependable, and good value if you want to stay central. Book Nan Boutique Hotel.

More than just a place to sleep, this is an experience in itself. Set high in the hills with stunning panoramic views, cooler mountain air and a calm, design-conscious feel. Best for slowing down and making the stay part of the journey. Book SLA Sakad.

• 6:00 am : Quiet streets and coffee // Start while the town is still cool. Walk gently through town and find a local coffee shop opening for the day.

• 7:30 am : Temple morning light // Visit Wat Phumin before it gets warmer. The atmosphere is best when you’re early.

• 9:00 am : Slow breakfast // Northern-style breakfast or simple rice soup near the market. Take your time, and experience daily life.

• 10:30 am : Art and culture // Stop by Nan National Museum to understand the province’s Lanna and Tai Lue influences.

• 12:30 pm : Lunch // Khao soi, grilled meats, local vegetables, something unhurried.

• 2:00 pm : Scenic drive // Head toward Pua or the Bo Kluea road. Even a short drive outside town changes the whole feeling of the day.

• 4:30 pm : Viewpoint stop // Pull over where the road opens into mountain layers and rice fields. This is Nan at it’s best (Tip: catch the sunset over the rice paddies!)

• 6:00 pm : Night market // Return to town for snacks, fruit shakes and simple street food. Taking a stroll will make you feel part of the evening and local life.

• 8:00 pm : Early night // This is not a place to party. Instead Nan evenings are naturally calm. Read, rest, and let the day end slowly.

If you liked this week’s edition, here’s what’s worth to Eat, See and Explore:

Food in Nan is gentle, seasonal and tied closely to northern traditions.

Meals often feel less heavy than in bigger cities. Herbs, grilled meats, fresh vegetables, chilli dips and sticky rice all appear often. There’s also a strong café culture growing quietly through town and surrounding districts.

If you want a few places to begin:

Heuan Puka
One of Nan’s better-known spots for northern Thai food, set in a relaxed traditional-style setting. A good first introduction to regional flavours, with dishes that lean local rather than touristy. Come hungry and take your time.

Gin Restaurant
Simple, dependable and consistently popular with locals. Expect Thai comfort food done well, generous portions, and the kind of place that works any time of day when you just want something easy and satisfying. (And no, Gin is not the drink. Gin = ‘Eat’ in Thai language)

Hot Bread Restaurant
A long-running Nan favourite that many visitors end up returning to more than once. The menu mixes Thai and Western comfort dishes, making it a useful all-round option for breakfast, lunch or an uncomplicated dinner.

Erabica Coffee Nan
A coffee stop that reflects Nan’s growing café culture. Well-made coffee, warm design and an easy atmosphere make it ideal for a slow morning, mid-day reset, or quick break between sightseeing.

Wat Phumin
Nan’s most recognizable temple, known for its Lanna-style architecture and detailed murals that quietly tell stories of everyday life, tradition and relationships. The atmosphere inside is calm and intimate, especially in the early morning before visitors arrive. Take a moment with The Whisper—it’s become a symbol of Nan for a reason.

Wat Phra That Khao Noi
Set on a hill just outside town, this temple looks out over Nan and the surrounding valley. A short drive up leads to wide, open views, with a golden Buddha standing quietly above it all. Come in the late afternoon when the light softens and the town begins to slow down.

Nan National Museum
A good place to understand the province beyond what you see on the surface. Housed in a former royal residence, the museum gives context to Nan’s Lanna and Tai Lue heritage, with artifacts, textiles and stories that help connect the temples, towns and traditions around you.

Nan Riverside Art Gallery
A quieter, more contemporary counterpoint to Nan’s historic side. Set along the river and surrounded by greenery, the space showcases Thai artists with a focus on northern themes. It’s an easy, reflective stop that fits naturally into Nan’s slower rhythm.

Bo Kluea Salt Wells
High in the mountains, this small village has been producing salt for centuries using natural brine drawn from deep underground wells. The process is still done by hand, in simple wooden huts with firewood and large iron pans. It’s quiet, a bit unexpected, and gives a rare look into a tradition that has barely changed over time.

Sapan Village
A small mountain village where mornings often begin with mist hanging low over the valley. Wooden stays, a narrow stream running through the center, and surrounding green hills give it a calm, almost untouched feel. It’s less about things to do, and more about slowing down and staying present.

Pua District
One of the most scenic parts of Nan, known for its wide rice fields and softer countryside landscapes. Cafés and small stays are spread out rather than clustered, so everything feels open and unhurried. It works best as a base for exploring the surrounding mountains at your own pace.

Route 1081 Scenic Road
A winding mountain road connecting Nan to Bo Kluea, often considered one of the most beautiful drives in Thailand. Long curves, shifting elevations and constant views make the journey as memorable as the destination. Plan extra time—this is not a road you rush.

“Have you been to Nan yet?”

A northern-style casual phrase you might hear in conversation.

If you want to answer:

เคยแล้ว (koei laeo) = Already have
ยังบ่เคย (yang bor koei) = Not yet

✈️ Thailand is shifting its tourism strategy toward higher-value, longer-stay travelers, while encouraging visitors to explore secondary provinces beyond the main hotspots. The goal is less crowding, more meaningful travel, and stronger local economies.

🌏 Travel patterns are adjusting globally, and Thailand is benefiting. Rising costs and instability in other regions are pushing more travelers toward Southeast Asia, with Thailand remaining one of the most attractive and accessible options.

🌿 Northern Thailand is seeing a renewed focus on slow travel and nature-based experiences, with mountain provinces and rural stays becoming more popular among travelers looking for quieter, more immersive trips.

🌫️ At the same time, seasonal air pollution in parts of the north (especially around Chiang Mai) is influencing travel patterns, with more people choosing lesser-known provinces and different times of year to visit.

Songs for discovering Thailand: from scenic drives to hidden escapes. New vibes added every week .

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Wishing you save travels,

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