Pai: Thailand’s Wild Little Mountain Town

Vol. 23 - March 2025

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Pai may look like just one main street in a mountain valley north of Chiang Mai, but step outside town and it turns into something much bigger. Waterfalls, canyon sunsets, open roads and more to discover than you expect.

Let’s get our wheels on the road!

Happy travels from Ploy, Jochem & Moana

A travel story

Everyone told us the same thing before Pai.
“You’ll go for two days and want to stay for two weeks.”

Jochem and I laughed as we had a plan. Three nights in this small town, done.

The drive from Chiang Mai was already an experience, bend after bend after bend.

After tackling the road to Chiang Dao earlier, Moana had declared herself retired from twisty mountain highways 😂. Pai clearly didn’t get that memo. Let’s just say we were all relieved when the road finally flattened out.

We checked into Re Connect Pai - Keys Resort, just outside the busiest part of town. Quiet, green, and perfect for a family base. Close enough to walk into town, but far enough to sleep properly at night. After that winding drive, it felt good to drop our bags and breathe for a second.

At first glance Pai doesn’t look like much. There’s one main street, a few bars, some smoothie stands. You start wondering what all the fuss is about.

Then you rent motorbikes.

Within minutes you’re out of town, driving past rice fields with mountains in every direction. It feels wide open, like true freedom!

Our first stop was Pam Bok Waterfall. The last stretch of road is dusty and rough, be careful if you’re not an experienced motorbike driver. The waterfall drops into this cold, clear pool between rock walls. You can climb up the side and jump in the water below. The water is freezing so it wakes you up properly.

The next day we went to Mor Paeng Waterfall. That one’s easier to reach and busier, but the natural rock slide is addictive. You climb up, sit down, push off, and splash into the pool below. This was Moana’s favorite spot of the trip she said. The rocks are slippery though, so you need to stay sharp!

In the afternoon we visited Pai Canyon. From the car park it looks harmless. Then you step onto those narrow ridges with steep drops on both sides and suddenly it’s not so casual. You feel it in your legs and stomach. Ploy who’s afraid of heights wasn’t a fan, so take this into account if you’re afraid of heights.

Sunset turns everything orange and the whole valley lights up. It’s a magical place and one-of-a-kind.

The next day we rode further out, just following small roads without much of a plan (which we love to do every now and then). Shan villages, dirt tracks with hardly anyone around. We think that’s the best way to do Pai. Just pick a direction and go, but make sure you bring water, snacks, sunscreen and a working phone with enough battery.

Back in town, Walking Street kicks off at night. You see the smoke coming from grilled pork skewers and smell the sweet Banana roti flipping on hot plates. Music starts drifting out of bars.

One evening we went to Edible Jazz for a cold drink and dinner. It was lively but still relaxed enough for us to bring Moana along. Good music, good atmosphere.

Another night we stopped by Don’t Cry Bar to watch the fire show. We didn’t stay long. Just enough for Moana to be completely impressed and for us to feel the buzz of the place before heading home.

In between all of that, there was a lot of food.

Khao soi for lunch more than once. Riverside dinner at Northern Soul Pai with northern sausage and grilled pork neck. Coffee breaks at Cafecito that somehow stretched longer than planned. Pai has a way of turning “quick stops” into proper pauses.

We weren’t trying to pack everything in. There was just always something else nearby worth checking out.

Without planning to, we started talking about extending our stay…

• 7:00 am : Big White Buddha views // Head up to Wat Phra That Mae Yen before it gets hot. It’s 353 steps but the wide valley views are totally worth it.

• 8:00 am : Proper coffee // Breakfast at Cafecito. Good coffee, solid plates with Mexican breakfast (we don’t eat Thai food exclusively :)

• 09:30 am : Waterfall swim // Ride out to Pam Bok Waterfall for a colder, quieter dip. If you prefer easier access (with kids), choose Mor Paeng Waterfall. Go slow on the motorbike and wear proper shoes for the hike up the rocks.

• 12:30 pm : Khao soi lunch // Find a busy local spot near Walking Street. Add pickled greens and chili oil, and make sure you have a cold drink on the side.

• 2:00 pm : Explore without a plan // Take small roads west of town toward Shan villages and rice fields. Bring water, snacks, sunscreen and make sure your phone has battery.

• 4:30 pm : Pai Canyon // Head to Pai Canyon before sunset. The ridges are narrow and steep. Not ideal if you’re afraid of heights, then just enjoy the beautiful sunset.

• 7:00 pm : Dinner by the river // Go to Northern Soul Pai for northern sausage, grilled pork neck and proper flavors.

• 8:30 pm : Walking Street stroll // Skewers, mango sticky rice, banana roti. Stop by Edible Jazz for live music or catch the fire show at Don’t Cry Bar before heading back.

FUN TIP: 🛶 Tipsy Tubing

If you’re in Pai on Tuesdays and Fridays during the dry season (roughly November through May), Tipsy Tubing is one of those experiences everyone talks about. You grab a tube, float down the Pai River with a group, and stop at a few riverside bars along the way. There’s music from local DJs, games, and a very social, backpacker-style vibe.

It’s less about adrenaline and more about fun, drifting past green scenery with a drink in hand, meeting people from all over the world. If you’re traveling without kids and in the mood for something lively, this is classic Pai energy.

You can book the Tipsy Tubing tour here.

The exact route we recommend for a first time Thailand trip.

You’ll visit the city, see mountains and swim in a crystal clear tropical sea! 🏝️

Inside:

Everything you need for an unforgettable, well-planned holiday!

Pai’s food leans northern. Bold, creamy, herbal. Less sweet than central Thai dishes, more depth from spices and slow cooking.

Khao Soi
The signature northern curry noodle soup. Coconut curry broth, egg noodles, crispy noodles on top. Add pickled mustard greens, red onion and chili oil. You’ll probably order it more than once (it’s our favorite Thai dish!).

Sai Ua
Northern Thai herb sausage packed with lemongrass, kaffir lime leaf and chili. Slightly spicy, very fragrant.

Nam Prik + Veg Plates
Chili dips served with fresh and boiled vegetables. Simple, healthy and full of flavor.

Grilled Pork Skewers (Moo Ping)
Perfect Walking Street snack. Smoky, slightly sweet, eaten straight off the stick.

Banana Roti & Mango Sticky Rice
Late-night classics on Pai Walking Street.

For sit-down meals, try riverside dinner at Northern Soul Pai for proper northern flavors.

Look for busy spots filled with Thai families. Menus are sometimes only in Thai, but that’s usually a good sign. If locals are eating there, you’re in the right place.

A useful phrase at the end of dinner on Walking Street or after one more coffee than planned. Add ครับ (khrup) if you’re male, ค่ะ (ka) if you’re female.

Songs for discovering Thailand: from scenic drives to hidden escapes. New vibes added every week .

Click on any of the tracks below to get in the travel mood.

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Wishing you save travels,

The Thai List - Your weekly postcard from Thailand 🇹🇭